Thailand is home to a rich tapestry of ancient temples, lush jungles, magnificent beaches, smiling people, and some of the best food on the planet.
We visited in the high, dry season this past January. As first-time visitors we planned an itinerary that allowed for ample time in the bustling capital city of Bangkok, the mountainous region near Chiang Mai, and the beaches to the south. We loved our two-week adventure, sampling the best of all Thailand has to offer. Read on for travel inspiration and food envy!
Thailand Map
Below is a map of our trip including points of interest, activities, and restaurants. Toggle the sidebar for details.
Trip Overview & Tips
This trip begins and ends in Bangkok, making use of the city’s two airports with extensive domestic and international flight options. While you can travel by train or car within Thailand, this itinerary assumes you’ll be flying to make the most of your two weeks in the country.
- Bangkok | Days 1-3
- Chiang Mai | Days 4-7
- Krabi | Days 8-9
- Koh Jum | Days 10-14
Download the Grab App
Grab is like the Uber of Thailand, so you can use it as a ride-hailing app but they also offer food delivery and other services. We downloaded Grab ahead of our trip and added a credit card as a payment method.
Where we stayed in Bangkok was not conducive to using public transportation like the Skytrain and the city is not very walkable. For those reasons we ended up taking countless Grab rides to get where we needed to be. We never had to wait long, had great ride experiences each time, and loved the ability to pay with our credit card. This eliminated the hassle of needing exact change for taxis, and our fear of getting ripped off by an unmetered taxi.
Get a Klook Account & Download the App
Never heard of Klook? Does it sound fake? If so, I thought those same things but it turned out to be an invaluable tool during our time in Asia. Klook is an online travel company where users can book travel experiences, transportation, hotels, and tickets to attractions. Think of it like TripAdvisor, Viator, or any other third-party booking platform. In Thailand specifically, we pre-booked all our Bangkok airport transfers ahead of time through Klook. While we could have taken taxis, we liked the idea of a driver waiting for us either at the airport or our hotel, and with everything pre-paid. We used this a total of four times in Bangkok and had a very positive experience.
Be Prepared to Use a Lot of Cash
In Thailand many stores, restaurants, and even public transportation only accept cash. We found ourselves heading to the ATM several times during our trip to stock up on Thai Baht. We used ATMs run by the banking group “KBank” (Kasikornbank) and never had an issue.
Pack Tissues
Many public restrooms in Thailand have limited or even no toilet paper available. Napkins are also scarce in restaurants and at food vendors. It’s always a good idea to have a pack of tissues in your bag while traveling throughout the country.
Arrival
Getting to the City
We found the easiest and most reliable way to get from the airport to the city to be arranging a private transfer through Klook. When we exited the arrivals hall we found our name on the sign board and met up with our driver a short bit later. Traffic is notoriously horrendous in Bangkok, but luckily the airport is served by a system of fast-moving highways. It took around 45 minutes to reach our hotel.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at the Grande Centre Point Surawong and this luxury hotel was one of the best of our entire trip. The bed in our premium king room was ridiculously comfortable, there was an in-room mini-fridge with free drinks and snacks, and the toilet was the best we’ve encountered outside of Japan.
Upon check-in we were also given a set of tokens to use within the hotel for free drinks or gifts. We spent our tokens on smoothies at the pool bar and a very cute reusable tote bag. The pool and gym area on the roof as well as the on-site breakfast were top-notch.
On our first night in Bangkok we walked from our hotel to BDESI, an Indian restaurant where we had amazing chicken 65, chicken tikka masala, and garlic naan. And, they accepted credit cards, always a plus in Thailand.
Day 1 | Bangkok: Temples & Tuk Tuk Night Tour
Thailand is home to over 40,000 Buddhist temples, with Bangkok alone boasting nearly 400. This is why it is often called the “City of Temples”. This itinerary begins with visiting three of the most famous temples, all within walking distance of one another.
When visiting any Buddhist temple, remember to dress modestly and respectfully. This means covering your shoulders and knees. It is generally extremely hot in Bangkok, so be sure to carry water and seek out shade in the temple complexes when possible. And if you didn’t pack pants, you can grab a pair of the ubiquitous elephant pants at a nearby vendor in your favorite color.
The Grand Palace
The Grand Palace is a complex of buildings located along the banks of the Chao Phraya River surrounded by four walls. It has a history as a royal residence and government site, but is now one of the most visited tourist attractions in all of Thailand. The grounds are massive containing a seeming maze of buildings, halls, courtyards, and lawns.
Since we were not doing a guided tour, upon entry we found a table with maps and informational pamphlets in English. We followed the written guide, on which the sites were numbered, to aid our visit and provide direction. This worked out really well. We recommend spending time at whichever sites catch your interest.
The Emerald Buddha, Wat Phra Kaew, is a must-see. We were surprised by the small size of the figurine which measures only 25 inches, including the base! The meditating Buddha is made from one solid piece of green jade and wears a ceremonial gold and diamond costume that varies by season (summer, rainy, and winter).
We also recommend spending time admiring the details on every structure in the complex, as they are truly stunning. A highlight for us were the Ramakien Murals along the walls. There are 178 panels, each depicting a different scene of Ramakien, the Thai version of the Indian epic, Ramayana.
Before leaving the complex, you may want to visit the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles. Admission is included in your ticket and the museum exhibits highlight the gorgeous wardrobe of The Queen Mother along with textiles from all over Southeast Asia.
We spent nearly two hours exploring the Grand Palace grounds and really could have spent more, but wanted to save our energy for later in the day. To get here, we took a Grab from our hotel which dropped us off right outside the entrance.
Need to Know
- Hours: Open daily 8:30am-4:30pm.
- Tickets: Admission to the Grand Palace is THB 500/adult. You can now purchase tickets online, in advance, via the Grand Palace website. When we visited, this feature was not up and running, so we entered the grounds and purchased our tickets using a credit card at the automated machine. There was no wait.
- Go early!: There is no way around it, no matter what day or time you go, the Grand Palace will be insanely crowded. But, try to get there as early as possible for a slightly more manageable experience. We arrived at 9am on a Sunday and while it was crowded (mostly with large tour groups), we did not have to wait to purchase our tickets or enter the grounds.
- Pro tip: Keep your Grand Palace ticket because it is good for a single visit to not only the the Grand Palace and Temple of the Emerald Buddha, but also the Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles within the same complex. You can also take in a Khon performance at the Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theatre and visit the Arts of the Kingdom Museum and the Masterpieces, as long as these visits take place within 7 days.
Wat Pho
Just a 10-minute walk from the Grand Palace lies Wat Pho, home of the Reclining Buddha. In stark contrast to the tiny Emerald Buddha, the Reclining Buddha is huge and measures 151 feet in length. The body is gilded in gold and the feet contain mother-of-pearl inlays displaying the 108 characteristic of Buddha.
Aside from the Reclining Buddha, the grounds are dotted with impressive stupas, or chedis (the mound-like or dome-shaped structures housing relics), both large and small. Wat Pho is also home to a traditional Thai massage school where you can get a treatment right on the grounds. We didn’t partake in a massage, but we did enjoy a mango smoothie from one of the vendors inside. The perfect refreshment on a hot day. We spent about one hour at Wat Pho.
Need to Know
- Hours: Open daily 8:00am-6:30pm.
- Tickets: Admission to Wat Pho is THB 300/adult. You cannot pre-purchase tickets and when we visited it was cash only.
Lunch
Just outside the exit of the Wat Pho grounds, there is a street lined with a ton of street food vendors selling everything from noodles to freshly-roasted pork. We were craving a respite from the heat with some time in air conditioning, so we walked and found a restaurant right off Maha Rat Road called The Sixth. We had delicious pad Thai. Note the restaurant is cash only.
Wat Arun
The last temple of the day is Wat Arun, also known as the Temple of Dawn, named after the Indian god of dawn, Arun. To get here, you’ll need to take the cross-river ferry from Tha Tien Pier which is less than a 5-minute walk from Wat Pho (even less if you leave from The Sixth restaurant). The ferry ride takes less than five minutes and departures occur very regularly. The one-way fee was THB 5/pp, cash only.
The shape of Wat Arun is iconic; a tall tower dominates the complex. The true wonder is when you get up close and realize the face is adorned with thousands of pieces of glazed porcelain arranged in mosaics. This is one temple you can actually climb on, so we recommend scaling the stairs for a great view of the grounds below and the river beyond. Don’t miss the rest of the grounds, including the Ordination Hall.
Interestingly, Wat Arun was a circus of professional photoshoots of individuals in traditional Thai attire. You may need to dodge quite a few of these during your visit!
We spent about 45 minutes at War Arun before taking the cross-river ferry back to the Tha TIen Pier.
Need to Know
- Hours: Open daily 8:00am-6:00pm.
- Tickets: Admission to Wat Arun is THB 300/adult. You cannot pre-purchase tickets and when we visited it was cash only. Our ticket also included a bottle of water, available to take upon entry.
Markets, Temples, and Food Night Tour by Tuk Tuk
At night, we took this Markets, Temples and Food Night Tour by Tuk Tuk and it was amazing. Definitely the most fun we had in Bangkok! We met our guide and group of nine other people at the Krung Thonburi BTS (Skytrain) station. From our hotel, this just was a two-stop ride on the Skytrain for which we paid THB 25/pp, cash only, at the automated machine for a single ticket.
We don’t think you’ve lived until you’ve sped down the streets in Southeast Asia on a tuk tuk. Each group was assigned a tuk tuk driver for the night, with our guide rotating among tuk tuks throughout the tour. We loved seeing each driver’s personality in the way their tuk tuks were decorated with everything from lights to disco balls. We were treated like royalty, always greeted with a cold bottle of water upon return.
Highlights of our four-hour tour throughout the streets of Bangkok included:
- A stop at a local market (no tourists!) for snacks of grilled quail eggs, deep-fried chicken skin, Khao Taen (like a Thai rice krispie treat), and fresh pineapple.
- Visit to Wat Prayun where we pulled right up to a secret back entrance like VIPs. We had the chance to take some amazing photos of the temple all lit up at night and to go through the museum which houses ancient relics of the Buddha and antiquities that were only just discovered during a recent restoration.
- Wandered through the 24-hour flower market where we got to try our hand at folding lotus petals. Our technique needs some work!
- Had a family-style dinner at the Royal Thai Navy Club where we feasted on rice, chicken curry, shrimp vegetables, and greens. The food was delicious!
- Stopped at the Giant Swing, a landmark in Bangkok’s Old Town.
- A jaunt through the chaotic streets of Chinatown where we had mini-pancakes with coconut milk ice cream for dessert.
Throughout the tour not only was our guide was entertaining, but she gave amazing information about the city and Buddhism that we didn’t learn anywhere else. The guide and tuk tuk drivers also took special care to take fantastic photos of all tour participants. They even came with their own lighting to enhance the quality of the nighttime photos when taken with our phones! At the end of our tour, our tuk tuk driver dropped us off at our hotel doorstep.
Day 2 | Bangkok: Maeklong Railway Market & Saduak Floating Market + Muay Thai
Markets Tour
liesWanting to explore a bit of what lay outside the city, we booked this full day tour to go to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market and Maeklong Railway Market. We took a Grab to the tour meeting location and met our guide, driver, and three others joining us for the day. From there, our group fought through Bangkok rush hour and after 1.5 hours of driving arrived at the Maeklong Railway Market.
This is a market centered directly over train tracks. By day you can walk along the tracks browsing souvenirs, fresh seafood, and produce. When the train signals blow, however, chaos ensues! Everyone scrambles to safety in a nearby shop as vendors fold back their awnings to allow the train to pass. It was honestly so much fun to witness the spectacle. Our guide shepherded us into a coffee shop where we ordered a drink and watched the show in a prime spot.
The passenger train came SO close! It was wild and fun with people leaning out of the train and waving as it crawled by.
After the train passed we had a bit of time to shop around and here is a good place to purchase souvenirs due to the inexpensive prices as compared to other markets we visited. Our guide let our group vote on whether we next wanted to visit a temple or a coconut sugar farm. We all felt we had seen enough temples by then, so we voted coconut sugar farm.
This was such an interesting stop to learn how coconut sugar is made from coconut flowering trees. Here we had the chance to climb a bamboo ladder up a coconut tree, scrape out coconut meat by hand, and watch how the sap from the trees is continually boiled until it thickens and then crystallizes. We also got free samples of coconut sugar, candy, chips, lotion, and even wine!
Our final stop of the day was the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market. This harkens back to the early days of Thailand when most daily commerce took place on the water in rivers and canals. Our group boarded a boat and under the comfort of umbrellas for shade, we were expertly rowed through the waterways by our captain for about 40 minutes. We passed by a ton of vendors selling everything from ice cream to skewers fresh from the grill to souvenirs. At one point there was a total traffic jam of boats, but that was part of the fun.
After our boat ride we had about an hour to wander through the market. We picked up a lunch of green curry and rice at the food court and then ventured down near the water to re-visit some of the vendors. No matter what you do, don’t leave the floating market without having coconut ice cream and mango sticky rice!
We then headed back to Bangkok arriving just after 2pm. Initially we were unsure about booking this tour to visit these places. Would it be worth the drive? Would they be too “touristy”? In our opinion, the tour was definitely worth it. Yes, you will be surrounded by lots of other tourists, but you will be visiting real markets with authentic Thai people and food and having a fascinating experience.
Since this tour makes for a long day, we recommend heading back to your hotel to rest up. Hopefully it has a pool you can enjoy to cool down and relax in!
Muay Thai at Rajadamnern Stadium
Rajadamnern Stadium is the world’s first purpose-built Muay Thai stadium. Muay Thai is a full-contact martial arts sport full of sweeping kicks and strikes. We got tickets to see the Rajadamnern Knock Out which they seem to hold nearly every evening. There were eight total fights each consisting of three, three-minute rounds. We saw two knockouts.
The stadium was incredibly modern and as the seats were arranged around the ring in a circle, there didn’t seem to be a bad seat in the house. As is tradition, the fighting was accompanied by a live Muay Thai orchestra. The entertainment between the fights was super fun and midway through the night there was a projection on the dome ceiling that took attendees through 1,000 years of Muay Thai history.
The fights began at 7pm and concluded at 10pm. Honestly we weren’t quite sure what to expect and whether or not the crowd would be too rowdy. But there was no reason to worry. Attendees were mostly tourists, everyone was well-behaved, and the entire experience was top-notch from start to finish!
Need to Know
- Tickets: You can purchase tickets the night of a fight, subject to availability. Wanting to secure good seats, we booked ours about a month ahead of time directly on Rajadamnern Stadium’s website. Note even though your ticket will have a QR code on it, once you arrive at the stadium you still need to visit the ticket window where they will give you a wristband with your seat information on it.
- Seats: We purchased Club Class tickets, Section 9, Seats D20 & D21. We could not have asked for a better view.
- The Stadium: You will need to put your bag through an x-ray machine and go through a metal detector to enter the stadium. No outside water is allowed. Once inside there are food and beverages for purchase and they even have in-seat sales and delivery, just like at a baseball game.
- Nearby: We had dinner before the fight at nearby restaurant Krua Pa & Ma Restaurant. We shared delicious spring rolls and chicken pad Thai. It was just a short walk from the stadium.
Day 3 | Bangkok: Canal Tour & Khon Performance
Bangkok Canal Longtail Boat Ride
To see a different side of Bangkok, we booked this 2-hour Bangkok Canal Tour. The meeting point was just south of Wat Pho and we stopped in Elefin Coffee directly across the street for delicious iced lattes before the tour began.
We met our guide and climbed into a traditional longtail boat to make the harrowing crossing of the busy Chao Phraya River. Once across, to get into the canals we entered a series of locks which was interesting in and of itself. Once on the other side, in Kronburi, it was like we had entered another world. The chaos was replaced by residential solitude and tons of water monitors (a large lizard that looks a little like an alligator) sunning themselves along the banks.
Our boat passed houses, temples, and made a brief stop at a market where we got out to stretch our legs and admire the fun art all around. We are really glad we did this tour to see a totally different side of the city. Note even though we did a morning tour, it was hot on the water when we weren’t moving (e.g., waiting for the locks to open). Make sure to bring plenty of water and you may even want to bring an umbrella for shade as the boat’s canopy didn’t do a great job.
Once back on the pier, we headed over to Home Cafe for refreshing watermelon smoothies and chicken pad Thai.
Khon Performance
Khon is a traditional Thai masked dance drama performance. Since a ticket to the 25-minute performance at Sala Chalermkrung Royal Theater is included in your Grand Palace ticket, we recommend making time to take in a show if you can. The story on stage is told through live music and dancing, and is supplemented with English and Chinese subtitles.
Need to Know
- Tickets: Admission is included as part of a Grand Palace ticket, as long as you visit within 7 days of the ticket purchase. If you don’t have a Grand Palace ticket, you can purchase a show ticket at the theater’s box office for THB 400/pp.
- Show Times: Performances are held Monday to Friday at 1:00 PM, 2:30 PM, and 4:00 PM.
- Getting There: There is a free, one-way shuttle that departs the Grand Palace 30 minutes prior to each showtime.
- Our Experience: We walked to the theater from another location and arrived just 5 minutes before showtime, but still had no problem finding a seat together.
Drinks & Dinner
For craft beer enthusiasts, we were able to visit two additional craft brewery locations in Bangkok. One was Brewdog in Ploenchit. Although this is a Scottish brewery with locations around the world, it never disappoints and we enjoyed this location’s funky atmosphere and decor.
Just down the road is SUAD Bar which had a nice tap list, and free popcorn!
For dinner, we headed into the nearby Central Embassy mall to eat at Thong Smith, known for their authentic Thai boat noodles. Our soups were incredibly flavorful and satisfying, but were also some of the most spicy we had in Thailand!
Day 4 | Chiang Mai: Temples
Chiang Mai is the largest city in northern Thailand and there is so much to love here. As the former capital of the Lanna Kingdom there are innumerable ancient temples. But natural beauty also abounds as the city is surrounded by mountains and a dense forest. Top it all off with a cuisine unique to northern Thailand and a laid-back backpacker vibe and this quickly became our favorite city of the trip.
Travel
To get to Chiang Mai, we took a Bangkok Airways flight from Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport. We had a great experience. Even though the flight was just over an hour long, we were served a meal, which would be downright laughable on an American domestic flight. We arranged a private transfer from the airport to our accommodations via our hotel. The ride into “Old City” took about 15 minutes.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at U Chiang Mai in the heart of Old City, the portion of the city surrounded by a moat and four walls. We really enjoyed our stay at this boutique hotel. Our first-floor room was spacious, the daily breakfast was phenomenal, and we were able to use the on-site gym each day. Everything in the city was walkable (such a nice change from Bangkok!), but the hotel also had free bikes for guest use.
Wat Chiang Man
In Chiang Mai, you’ll find a fraction of the number of temple visitors as compared to Bangkok, so you can take your time and enjoy the experience. This itinerary has you visiting three temples in Old City on the first day, all within walking distance of each other.
As the oldest temple in Chiang Mai, Wat Chiang Man was established in the 13th Century. The grounds were beautiful and unusual, particularly the elephant-flanked base of the large chedi. Don’t miss going inside the buildings to see Buddhas carved from marble and crystal, some dating back over 1,000 years! Wat Chiang Man is open daily from 8am-5pm and admission is free.
If you are in need of lunch nearby, just a 5-minute walk down the road is Mr. KAI Restaurant. We had to wait about 15 minutes for a table but it was 100% worth it. Here we had our first taste of Khao Soi, a northern Thai soup of rich coconut curry broth, tender braised meat, and boiled and fried noodles. The soup is accompanied by add-ins of pickled vegetables and greens. It was life-changing for us and we tried Khao Soi at as many places as possible while in Chiang Mai!
Wat Phra Singh
Built in 1345, Wat Phra Singh is home to one of Thailand’s most revered Buddha images known as Phra Singh, or Lion Buddha. The grounds of the entire complex are immaculately groomed and the structures are adorned with ornate gilded serpents.
Wat Phra Singh is a mere 15-minute walk from Wat Chiang Man. The temple is open daily from 8am-5pm. Admission is THB 50/pp, cash only.
Wat Chedi Luang
A further 10-minute walk leads to Wat Chedi Luang, the last temple we visited of the day and unlike any other temple we visited in Thailand. It is essentially ruins as the top of the chedi, which stands at nearly 300 feet tall, was destroyed over 200 years ago. Interestingly, this temple was the original home of the Emerald Buddha before it was moved to its current location in Bangkok nearly 500 years ago.
In addition to marveling at the heap of ruins there are statues housed in pavilions around the grounds including a large reclining Buddha and a Chinese-style “Happy Buddha”.
Wat Chedi Luang is open daily from 6am-6pm. Admission is THB 50/pp, cash only.
Eat, Drink & Be Merry
Chiang Mai is a culinary paradise, so we recommend following your heart and your stomach. During the rest of our first day in the city we enjoyed:
- Fresh fruit smoothies from Por Jai Fruits Juice & Coffee. Chock full of fresh fruit we loved our passion fruit and passion fruit + pineapple smoothies. So delicious and refreshing after a day in the sun!
- Beer from the bar at Renegade Craft Beer. They had a large selection of local craft beer on tap and plenty of bottles and cans.
- Our second Khao Soi of the day from Krua Dabb Lob which was just as delicious as our first!
Day 5 | Chiang Mai: Elephant Nature Park
While planning our trip to Thailand, we knew we wanted to spend time with elephants, but only if we could find an ethical sanctuary. After much research, we settled on Elephant Nature Park.
Elephant Nature Park rescues and rehabilitates elephants who in the past were subject to such cruelties as performing in circus shows, giving rides, and begging in the streets. As a result, many of the elephants have suffered not only physical but psychological damage. Elephant Nature Park provides a place for them to live freely in natural surroundings, cared for by humans showing them love and respect. There are several different types of visitor programs but all are based on letting the elephants be elephants. That means no riding and no bathing, and instead letting them spend their day as they wish.
Care for Elephants
We took part in the full-day Care for Elephants program. After being picked up at our hotel in Chiang Mai, we were driven about an hour to the reserve where we met Bow and Boon. These two lovely lady Asian elephants had former lives in the logging industry and subsequently riding. Bow was a 30-year old elephant who tended to be a bit naughty and mischievous, while Boon was a 60-year old sweetheart. She had no teeth, so she was on a special diet, and was so incredibly gentle in all our interactions. Our first task of the day was to cut up bucket loads of watermelon and make rice balls to feed Bow and Boon before they set out into the forest.
After Bow and Boon handily polished off two baskets of watermelon and 4 bowls of rice, we hopped into the back of a pickup truck for a bumpy ride up a hill. Once there, we had the chance to walk along alongside the elephants as they foraged, occasionally supplementing their feeding with the star fruit we had in our satchels. It turns out, elephants can be picky eaters! Initially, Bow was not at all into the star fruit but as the day progressed she decided she liked it.
We loved hanging back and watching Bow and Boon’s interactions and their playfulness with each other. Whether they knew it or not, they were very comedic and entertaining for us all.
We were then invited to make the short trek up to an amazing lunch spot set inside a large treehouse overlooking the river and forest below. We were treated to a vegetarian feast of noodles, curry, spring rolls, and much more. It was here that our group also had the chance to talk to each other and get to know each other a bit more.
After lunch we re-joined Bow and Boon and walked with them down to the river for a quick drink and splash before it was time for them to head home for a rest in the shade. Meanwhile, our group piled back into the van and headed to the main Elephant Nature Park complex where many more elephants reside.
We had the opportunity to walk around and observe these elephants and relax under a shaded pavilion where there was more food and even a coffee bar. Overall, we enjoyed the “morning” portion of our visit much more, but were glad we had the opportunity to see the rest of the park. Unfortunately, in October 2024 the area was hit with a historic “100 year” flood. Much of the vegetation was swept away, leaving behind piles and piles of dirt. It will be a long road to recovery.
We departed the sanctuary and nearly 10 hours after being picked up, arrived back to our hotel. A long day!
Need to Know
- Booking: Advance booking for the Care for Elephants program is essential and can be done on the Elephant Nature Park website. Spots can fill up very fast, especially during high season. When visiting in January, we made our booking six months in advance.
- Payment: When we made our booking a 30% deposit was required, which we made online via credit card with no fees. The remaining balance was due at the Elephant Nature Park. To avoid a 3% credit card fee on your balance, bring cash to pay.
- Pro tip: Make sure to wear clothes you don’t mind getting dirty. Even if it’s not muddy, expect to be covered in food, dirt, and elephant slobber by the end of the day. You may also want to bring a Buff or other nose and mouth covering, as when we went in the dry season it was quite dusty.
Dinner
After a much-needed shower, we walked over to Dash Teak House and had the most amazing meal of minced pork roti rolls, bowls of Khao Soi (our favorite of the trip), and mango New York cheesecake. Not only was the food great, but the ambiance was lovely and the manager and owner were very friendly.
We were really lucky to walk up and get a table on the spot, as we saw many other larger parties without reservations get turned away. Make sure to book ahead if you can, in order to avoid disappointment.
Day 6 | Chiang Mai: A Hidden Temple & Spa Day
By this point in our trip throughout Asia, we were desperate to do some laundry. If you are in the same boat, we highly recommend Laundry Express Chiang Mai By Enjoy on Ratchapakhinai Road. After stuffing nearly the entire contents of our suitcases into a backpack, we dropped off the sweaty, stinky pile of clothes shortly after 8am. By 6pm that evening they were waiting at the front desk of our hotel, freshly washed and folded. They were still warm! Our haul weighed 7.5 kg, costing THB 525, or about USD 15.
Wat Pha Lat
Wat Pha Lat is a hidden temple tucked into the mountainside.
While there is a road to get to Wat Pha Lat, if you’re physically able to do so, we think arriving by foot by hiking the Monk’s Trail is fun way to complement the experience. From the trailhead it is about 1 mile to the temple and the path climbs around 600 feet. The trail winds through the forest, but is well-marked with banners hanging from the trees and any intersections are clearly marked.
And, if you really want to amp up the adventure factor, instead of catching a shared taxi (a songthaew), it is possible to bike the 4 miles from Old City. We did this on the free bike cruisers available at our hotel! It was a bit hairy at times with the traffic and some of the hill climbs at the end, but made for such a fun day!
Dripping with moss and lined by trees, bamboo stalks, and even a waterfall, this temple was a peaceful oasis above the city. We loved the fine architectural details on the buildings and the abundance of stone carvings throughout the grounds.
Wat Pha Lat is open daily from 6am-6pm and admission is free. Note when we visited the restrooms on premisis were closed! So be sure to try and use the restroom before getting to the hike as there were no restrooms at the trailhead either.
On our cycle back into Old City, we stopped for a refreshing iced coffee at Basecamp Trail Cafe, just down the road from the Monk’s Trail start/end point.
For lunch, we snagged a table at Neng Earthen Jar Roast Pork. At this roadside cafe, pork is cooked over an open flame in a clay pot. They are famous for their crispy pork. We got it and LOVED it along with an order of sticky rice and morning glory greens with pork. Their coconut smoothies were a delicious pairing with the meat.
We really worked up an appetite on our excursion because to top it all off we stopped by the Banana Frita stand near our hotel. The crispy fried bananas were the perfect ending to our multi-course feast.
Note: Our temple adventure was a last-minute change to our itinerary. We were originally scheduled to do a market visit and cooking class, but this was unexpectedly cancelled by the provider the evening prior. We still think a cooking class in Chiang Mai would be a great addition to a trip!
Massage at Zira Spa
No trip to Thailand is complete without enjoying at least one relaxing spa session. After researching reputable spas in Chiang Mai, I (Heather) settled on Zira Spa and booked the “Lanna Classic”. This package included a foot bath, Thai traditional massage, and Thai herbal ball hot compress massage.
The entire experience was lovely from start to finish. I had a personal concierge of sorts assigned to me who explained everything, plying me with a refreshing iced juice and fruit before the treatment.
If you’ve never had a Thai massage before, it’s very different than Western-style. You are fully clothed in a comfortable, loose-fitting set of pants and shirt. During the treatment, instead of rubbing the muscles, your body is compressed, pulled, stretched, and even rocked. It can get quite intense at times, but you can ask your therapist to adjust the tension at any time. I left feeling relaxed, but also so loose and stretched out. At the end, I was given a hot tea and coconut muffin while recuperating.
After the spa, we had dinner reservations at the bustling Middle Eastern restaurant, Hummus. We shared a bunch of plates including the original hummus, a bagel mezze platter, falafel, and curry shakshuka. We were too full for dessert, but were given complimentary mini-baklava, which was the perfect ending. We recommend making an advance reservation, which is easy to do on their website.
Day 7 | Chiang Mai: Sunrise Temple Tour + Travel to Krabi
Sunrise Temple Tour
Waking up super early on vacation can be a drag, but we promise it’s worth it to see the sunrise from a temple in Thailand! For our last morning in Chiang Mai, we booked this sunrise tour of three temples.
We were picked up at our hotel just before 5am and driven high above the hills on a long and winding road to Wat Phratat Doi Suthep. In the dark of pre-dawn, our group took an electric tram up to the temple where we were given a historical overview of the temple and had the chance to explore the grounds. The gold-plated chedi at its center was impressive and we also had the chance to listen to monks chanting their morning prayers. While there were other groups there, everyone was extremely quiet and respectful, making the experience serene and mystical.
As the sun began to rise, we took our places along the balcony of a pavilion to watch the show. Situated 3,500 feet above Chiang Mai, even with the hazy skies, it was an amazing sight to behold. Later, we had the chance to walk down the 309 steps to the temple’s base which are lined with seven-headed serpent statues.
Next, our tour actually went back (via van) to Wat Pha Lat where we had hiked yesterday! We really liked this temple so we even enjoyed visiting it a second time.
The last temple stop of the morning was Wat Umong. Built in the 13th Century, this temple is famous and unique thanks to its large chedi and ancient tunnels. We walked through the tunnels which actually had (sleeping) bats in them. Eek!
Travel to Krabi
We arrived back at our hotel in Old City at 10am, with just enough time for a late breakfast and a shower. In need of an extra caffeine boost, we walked to Blue Coffee for some amazing iced lattes. We recommend trying the namesake blue coffee with blue spirulina.
We flew directly from Chiang Mai to Krabi via Bangkok Airways. We had another positive experience with this airline and on this ~2-hour flight we were once again served a meal. Take note! At the Chiang Mai airport Bangkok Airways has a free lounge available to all passengers. Just go to the 2nd floor (before security) and show your boarding pass. This was a much more comfortable place to wait with free wifi, water, juice, and snacks.
Krabi
We arranged a private airport transfer from the Krabi airport to our hotel, via our hotel. While pickup was smooth, expect it to take at least 45 minutes to 1 hour to drive to the Ao Nang area. Traffic is dense and the highway is under heavy construction, causing lots of delays.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at the Peace Laguna Resort & Spa. While we liked the location because we were able to easily walk one block into town, and the backdrop of limestone cliffs against the lagoon on the property was beautiful, we would not recommend a stay here. Our standard room with a balcony had all the charm of a dorm room, with no personal touches. The entire property felt dated and in need of a refresh and the breakfast buffet that was included was just okay. The wifi strength was also not the best and we had to log in every time we wanted to use it which was frustrating. Finally, the onsite gym did not open until 9am which rendered it completely useless for anyone to use before venturing out for the day.
For dinner we headed to Thai Me Up for pad Thai and green shrimp curry. As compared to Bangkok and Chiang Mai, Krabi was humid! Every restaurant serves their beer bottles with a koozie in an attempt to keep them cool. We recommend finding a seat in front of a fan because you’ll be sweating in no time.
Another way to keep cool is to make a beeline for the nearest ice cream. We tried Thai drum roll ice cream, which is ice cream rolled out over a cold drum and then shaped into a flower. Our coconut & Nutella and mango & coconut concoctions were delicious.
A note on Krabi: People tend to either love it or hate it. We fell into the latter category and frankly couldn’t wait to leave. We felt Krabi was filled with sunburnt tourists overindulging in drink. The cannabis stores on each corner coupled with the restaurant hawkers left us craving a more quiet side of Thailand. We are, however, glad we visited Krabi as a jumping off point for island tours. If you can grin and bear it, we still think Krabi is worth a short stop on your trip. And hey, a lot of people really enjoy it!
Day 8 | Krabi: Island Tour by Speedboat
The turquoise blue waters surrounding Krabi dotted with islands of limestone towers and white sand beaches are practically begging to be explored. While many people venture out on longtail boats, in order to see as much as possible in one day we booked this full-day speedboat island tour from Krabi. We met our guides and the 15 others on our tour at a central meeting point in town, then took open-air trucks to Nopparatara Pier for our departure.
The speedboat allowed us to cover a lot of ground very quickly and our guides did a fantastic job of planning the day so we avoided most of the crowds, even at popular locations, and timed things just right with the tides. We began with a quick dip into the picturesque lagoon on the south side of Hong Island; a beautiful photo opportunity. We then motored over to a small slice of white sand beach seemingly in the middle of nowhere. Here we had the chance to swim and relax on the beach. When we dreamed of coming to Thailand, this stop is absolutely what we pictured.
Next, we stopped at Koh Roi, an island where we traveled on foot under a small arch and came out into a narrow canyon filled with mangroves. This was a totally unexpected sight right in the middle of the Andaman Sea.
Back on board, we did a drive by of “James Bond Island” where The Man with the Golden Gun was filmed in the 1970s. Of course we had a photo shoot replete with golden guns and all.
Our lunch spot was on the quiet side of Koh Yah Noi. We set off along a boardwalk trail to see “The Big Tree”, a 300-year-old Kapong tree that stands over 300 feet tall. So impressive! When we were walking back, we also spotted two hornbills in the trees. Lunch was served family-style and consisted of the most delicious Thai food. We ate our fill sitting on the beach, relaxing in the shade.
The final stop of the day was Hong Island, which is a national park with a beautiful beach. But first, we climbed 400 steps to the Hong Island viewpoint. At the top you’re rewarded with 360-degree views of the beach below and the surrounding islands. Five stars!
If you’re looking to change things up from Thai cuisine while in Krabi, we loved our Indian meal at Tandoori Night’s Restaurant. We shared garlic naan, basmati rice, chicken tikka, and paneer korma. So delicious!
Day 9 | Krabi: Hot Spring, Emerald Pool & Tiger Cave Temple Tour
Near to Krabi are a few amazing land-based sites and we booked this full-day tour to visit hot springs, an emerald pool in the rain forest, and the Tiger Cave Temple complex.
Our last stop of the tour was the Tiger Cave Temple complex. Our first order of business was to make the climb to the giant golden Buddha at the top of the temple. The only catch? There are 1,260 steps and 1,014 feet standing between you and that Buddha. And not all the steps are the same size! While some are “normal”, others are at knee-height.
Once at the top, after gulping water and enjoying the stiff breeze, we explored the platform housing the giant Buddha, a golden chedi, and views of the lush valley below.
We recommend taking the ascent (and descent) slow, taking breaks whenever needed. Bring lots of water because the climb is incredibly taxing with the heat and humidity. Finally, keep your possessions secure and do not bring food. There are monkeys that have been known to snatch everything from water bottles to iPhones out of the hands of unsuspecting tourists. Thankfully when we were there in the afternoon, they were only in one spot and seemed too tired to make any moves.
Right the bottom of the stairs you’ll find a smoothie stand, so we immediately purchased two mango smoothies and recovered in the shade. Before leaving the area, our guide led us into a small part of the temple complex with an actual “tiger” on display. This was another full-on day, but one we also highly recommend while in Krabi.
On our last night in Krabi, we enjoyed a meal of spring rolls and pad Thai from Palm Tree Restaurant, set just off the main road in Krabi. Our post-dinner treat was ice cream at Ankoa Homemade Ice Cream. The texture was creamy and the flavors unusual. We had banana & coconut and lychee & mango. Yum!
Days 10-14 | Koh Jum: Island Relaxation
To close out our time in Thailand, we spent four glorious days at Koh Jum Beach Villas. This was by far the biggest splurge we’ve had on any trip, but our one bedroom beachfront villa (Baan Si Fah) was an oasis of peace and relaxation. A four-poster king size bed, full kitchen and dining area, living room, and terrace with private pool were the epitome of luxury.
We chose Koh Jum due to its small size, laid-back vibes, and beautiful beaches. To get there, transfers were arranged through our resort. We took a van to a pier on the mainland, a private longtail boat to Koh Jum’s floating pier in the village, and an open-air truck cab the last mile.
We came to Koh Jum to spend a few days with no plans, no activity reservations, and no morning alarms. We can’t say enough positive things about the resort. We were greeted with a plentiful breakfast buffet each morning. In-villa dining was also offered and we took advantage of that two nights, not wanting to venture outside of the resort. We borrowed a tandem kayak for a short paddle one afternoon and frequently used the bicycles provided for guests in order to cycle into town for a few groceries or lunch at a restaurant.
We spent our days taking long walks along the shoreline, beachcombing, swimming, and reading. As a result, there won’t be a long writeup here but in the event you visit Koh Jum, below are places we went to and enjoyed. Note: There are no ATMs on the island and every place we went (outside of the resort) was cash only. Be sure to bring enough Thai Baht to last your stay!
- Plathai Shop Kohjum (groceries): Located just outside the road that leads to Koh Jum Beach Villas, we stopped at this small store every day. We filled our bicycle baskets with beer for our villa fridge (much cheaper than paying at the resort bar!) and the most delicious watermelon and mango we’ve ever had. Their (vegan) coconut ice cream was also superb.
- Mama Halal Food: The star here was the Thai noodle soup, but the pad Thai and mango smoothies were also huge hits. This was our first of many experiences eating at tiny, family-run restaurants on the island. The love and care put into the food made it all the more delicious.
- Pizza Place: Pizza, in Thailand? We know, but trust us this 100% homemade pizza was amazing. We shared Hawaiian chicken and green curry pizzas with a banana smoothie.
- Tingrai Restaurant: Here we enjoyed a late lunch of pad Thai, fried basil chicken, and coconut/banana/pineapple smoothies.
- Lucky Restaurant: Dinner here was pad Thai and coconut smoothies. [The smoothies on Koh Jum are so addicting!]
- Our Corner Cafe: We had surprisingly delicious burgers and fries here.
- Rock Bar: We walked down the beach to the Rock Bar, a staple of any visit to Koh Jum. Made entirely of reclaimed beach debris and wood, we sipped our mojitos in the shade in this funky bar.
There are countless islands in southern Thailand, so we recommend finding one that fits your budget and interests. Based on our experience, we enthusiastically recommend a stay on Koh Jum for a beach getaway you won’t soon forget. The perfect way to close out a two-week journey through exotic Thailand.
