After spending two weeks in Japan this past November, it quickly skyrocketed to #1 on the list of countries we’ve visited. Why? To start, the drool-inducing and yet affordable food scene. Couple that with a solid infrastructure (hello, Shinkansen!), pristine and safe streets, and friendly and welcoming locals. What else could you ask for?
We loved our time in Japan and hope sharing our experiences with you will help you plan your own trip. We stayed primarily on the typical “Golden Route”, hitting the major cities and famous sites.
Japan Trip Map
Below is a map of our trip including points of interest, activities, and restaurants. Toggle the sidebar for details.
Trip Overview & Tips
This trip begins and ends in Tokyo, making use of Japan’s incredible public transportation. In particular, its high-speed rail network of Shinkansen or “bullet trains” makes travel between cities easier than ever.
- Tokyo | Days 1-3
- Hakone | Days 4-5
- Osaka | Days 6-8
- Hiroshima | Days 9-10
- Kyoto | Days 11-14
Japan Rail Pass (aka JR Pass)
Only available for purchase by foreign visitors, the JR Pass is a rail pass granting unlimited rides on JR trains for one, two, or three week periods. For tourists it used to nearly always make sense to purchase this pass, but due to a massive price increase in 2023, it pays to do the math ahead of your trip.
For this two-week itinerary, it did not make sense for us to purchase the JR Pass. Buying individual, reserved seat tickets for each leg of our trip saved us nearly $250 as compared to purchasing the JR Pass.
In every instance, we were able to purchase reserved seat tickets on the next departing train (usually within 10-20 minutes) by using the automated ticket machines. We really liked the flexibility this offered us in our itinerary as we were never rushing (or waiting around) for a train we had reserved in advance. Note if you are traveling during the major holiday seasons in Japan, Golden Week and Japanese New Year, it is highly recommended to purchase tickets in advance as trains do sell out.
Here is more information on the JR Pass, as well as a JR Pass calculator that may aid in your decision-making. Take note that some of the fastest train lines between major cities, the Nozomi and Mizuho, require a supplemental fee on top of the JR Pass. Be sure to take that into account as the amount is not insubstantial!
Welcome Suica Card
One of the best decisions we made was to purchase a Welcome Suica card at the automated machine upon arrival at the Haneda Airport in Tokyo. This is a card with pre-paid funds that can be used on nearly all modes of transportation across Japan, with the exception of the Shinkansen. You can also use the card as a form of payment at certain convenience stores, vending machines, etc. We loved the ease of getting on the train, metro, subway, and bus feeling like a local by just tapping to pay.
A few things to highlight:
- Each traveler needs to have their own Suica card
- The initial loading of funds onto the card can by done by credit card, but subsequent top-ups are cash only
- Max validity for the card is 28 days, and while no deposit is required, no refunds are given for unused funds so plan carefully!
Google Maps
We found Google Maps to be an invaluable tool for route-finding in Japan. It had extensive and detailed information about the timing of public transportation and its cost. While we were initially worried about getting around massive cities like Tokyo, Google made this a breeze. While we may prefer other map applications at home, Google is far superior in Japan, for now.
Wifi/Internet Access
You may be surprised to know that free, public wifi in Japan is not as ubiquitous as in the United States, or other countries we’ve visited. For this reason, you’ll want to make sure to invest in either an eSIM, pocket wifi, or international mobile plan. For all our international trips this year, we’ve pre-purchased an eSIM. This worked perfectly for us in Japan and we used less than 5GB of data during our trip, even with extensive usage.
Cash is King
While we were able to use our credit card nearly every place in Tokyo, once we left that city behind, many places were cash only. This included things like temple visits and street food, but also many restaurants. Definitely make sure you are able to access cash at an ATM. We had no problem using the ATM at the airport and convenience stores like 7-11 or Lawson.
Punctuality
It’s not just the trains that run on time! The Japanese value punctuality a great deal. As people who always show up for a tour or event at the appointed time, we LOVED this aspect of the culture. All activities we participated in started exactly on time, regardless if everyone was present. Beware if you are chronically late.
Arrival
We had a great experience taking the Haneda Airport Limousine Bus from the airport to a drop-off point within a 5-minute walk to our Airbnb. Tickets can be bought at the automated machines in the international arrival hall. In our experience, these coach buses left every 20 minutes and it took about an hour to get into the city. For a reasonable price and with our luggage stored safely below, we just had to sit back and enjoy the ride.
Where We Stayed
We elected to stay in an Airbnb apartment in Shinjuku near Shinjuku Station, giving us easy access to public transportation. Although very small, the apartment met our needs, was very convenient, and less expensive than any hotel. There are many different neighborhoods to choose from, but we found this to be a good central base.
Day 1 | Tokyo
This itinerary assumes your flight landed in Tokyo the evening prior and that you’re hitting the ground running the next morning. This will be a long day that has you crisscrossing the city, making heavy use of the Tokyo subway lines. If you feel intimidated, it’s understandable but trust us, you have nothing to worry about. Google maps and your Suica card coupled with signs in English make getting around quite easy. Although there are a lot of people at the stations, especially during rush hour, it is very orderly. There are signs directing you where to stand to get on a subway car, and even which way to walk up or down flights of stairs in the stations. And guess what? People follow them! Look around and you’ll quickly pick up cues from locals. Just follow their example and you’ll be fine!
Tsukiji Outer Market Food & Drink Walking Tour
We love starting our trips to new countries with an introduction to the cuisine. Taking a food tour is a great way to get acclimated and get ideas for what you want to eat and try during the rest of your trip.
Tsukiji Outer Market is a maze of food sellers and stands where you can try everything from wagyu beef to fresh oysters to bluefin tuna. It is a bustling area that is so fun to explore, but we’re glad we signed up for this small group food tour where we had the chance to learn detailed information about the food and ask questions. There were only three of us total and over the course of three hours we sampled wagyu beef skewers, a fried fish cake, Japanese omelet, fresh grapes and strawberries, bluefin tuna, and a fresh fish and rice bowl, where we watched the chef filet and arrange the fish. We also made short cultural detours into the nearby Tsukiji Honganji-Temple, Namiyoke Shrine, and through the fish wholesale stalls.
If you take the same tour we did, it will start at the gates of the Tsukiji Honganji-Temple. Nearby is Turret Coffee Tsukiji, where we had the best coffee of our entire trip to Japan. A very small one-man shop using handpicked espresso beans, our iced lattes were a cut above the rest.
Explore Asakusa
Asakusa is an area best explored by foot and you’ll want to start with a walk down the crowded Nakamise Street where souvenir and food stands abound. You’ll enter through the Kaminarimon Gate, walk down along the street, and then pass through the Hozomon gate before arriving at the Sensoji Temple’s main hall and a five-storied pagoda. Spend some time exploring the area’s nooks and crannies to find hidden buddha statues and koi ponds. Admission is free.
Slightly off the main road, we highly recommend a visit to Asakusa Kagetsudō to try an ice cream-filled melopan sweet bun. Warm and crispy on the outside, with the sweet matcha ice cream we got on the inside, led to a mouthwatering treat we often thought about during the rest of our trip!
Our favorite souvenir of our trip was the goshuincho we started on our very first day. Goshuincho are books that house evidence of visits to shrines and temples in the form of goshuin, which are red stamps.
The initial book can be purchased at any temple and will be unique to that location. When visiting any Shinto shrine or Buddhist Temple in Japan, look for Goshuinjo signs and wait in line to have your book stamped. There is a fee associated with the stamp which we generally found to be ¥500, cash only.
The end result is a beautiful keepsake of your temple and shrine visits, marked by stamps and calligraphy, unique to each location.
If you don’t have one already, Sensoji Temple is a great place to purchase and start your goshuincho.
Meiji Shrine & Yoyogi Park
Meiji Shrine and the adjacent Yoyogi Park comprise an amazing green space inside the bustling city streets of Tokyo. We loved walking through the large torii gate and forest to get to the main shrine. Along the way, there are beautiful sites such as the wall of consecrated sake barrels and garden exhibits. When we visited, there was a bonsai and chrysanthemum exhibit on. Admission is free, other than the on-site museum and inner garden, which charge a small fee.
Explore Harajuku
Just a 15-minute walk away from Yoyogi Park is Tokyo’s Harajuku district. Be prepared to be amazed (and potentially overwhelmed) with a walk down Takeshita Street. You’ll see everything from wild fashion boutiques to otter cafes to outrageous crepe stands. Even if you don’t stay long, it’s worth a walk through just for the experience.
Explore Shibuya
In Shibuya you’ll find swarms of visitors, shops, and eateries. We found this to consistently be the most crowded area of Tokyo we visited, but if you can brave the hoards of (generally orderly) people, it’s so fun!
Shibuya Scramble
This iconic intersection sees hundreds of people crossing when the lights change, whether day or night. We crossed several times (just for fun) around dusk, and it was really something special to be under the city lights surrounded by a mass of humanity.
Hachikō Statue
A visitor favorite is to pay respects to the Hachikō Statue, erected in honor of the famous Akita dog who would greet his owner outside the Shibuya Station as he commuted home. Ever loyal, Hachikō continued to do so each day for over nine years following his owner’s death.
Shibuya Sky
Shibuya Sky is an open-air observation deck located at the top of a skyscraper in Shibuya Square. Full disclosure: We had pre-purchased tickets for the top (they do sell out early) but we were so exhausted on our first night that we couldn’t stay up late enough. But it looks really fun!
Ichiran Ramen
Introverts rejoice! Ichiran Ramen is a chain with many outposts across Japan, one of which is just a 2-minute walk from the Shibuya Scramble. As a diner you order your meal on a touchscreen and are then assigned a seat in a little cubby that reminded us of study carrels at the library. A piece of paper awaits where you can customize everything from the firmness of the noodles to the spiciness level. A bamboo screen in front of you is lifted and your ramen is served by a waiter who remains nearly invisible. No talking required!
If you are dining with others, not to worry, the dividers between booths can be lowered. We enjoyed beer and pork ramen and this remained one of our favorite ramen experiences of our entire trip. Go here!
Day 2 | Tokyo DisneySea
Whether you’re a huge Disney fan or not, we think DisneySea is worth a visit. The only theme park of its kind, the focus is on the myths and legends of the sea. While the attractions are great fun, the atmosphere of the park is truly one of the best parts. The different sectors of the park include the Mediterranean Harbor, American Waterfront, Port Discovery, Lost River Delta, Arabian Coast, Mermaid Lagoon, Mysterious Island, and the brand-new, very popular Fantasy Springs.
Based on our experience, the pros were one-day tickets cost a fraction of what they do in the U.S. Disney parks and getting there via public transportation is very easy. And again, we really liked the exploration and adventure vibe of the park and all park employees were incredibly friendly and helpful.
The downsides were it was very crowded (we went on a Friday) from start to finish. Even arriving an hour before opening, we didn’t get through the gates until a half an hour after opening. Once inside, wait times were consistently long throughout the day for both rides AND food! We definitely recommend using mobile order for any food you want, and to plan way ahead of when you actually want to eat. Lastly, the DisneySea app was a very poor experience compared to U.S. parks. It was slow and not user-friendly at all!
During our time at DisneySea, from 9:30am to 8pm, we rode the following:
- 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea
- Aquatopia
- Caravan Carousel
- Indiana Jones Adventure (2x) (the single rider line here is very helpful to avoid a long wait)
- Peter Pan’s Neverland Adventure (we paid for Disney Premier Access in order to gain access to Fantasy Springs, but note, once inside Fantasy Springs you must also have a pass for any other ride you want to go on!)
- Raging Spirits (we used our free 40th Anniversary Priority pass here, and are glad we didn’t wait in line)
- Sinbad’s Storybook Voyage
- Soaring: Fantastic Flight (we paid for Disney Premier Access since the line was crazy long all day)
- Tower of Terror (2x)
Day 3 | Tokyo
Now is a good time to talk about the amazingness of convenience stores like 7-11, Lawson, and Family Mart in Japan. We got breakfast here most days as their selection of food, and the fresh coffee, were incredibly tasty and very cheap. We also got snacks, beer, and even Part II of a dinner one night. Plus, the stores play music when you enter!
teamLab Borderless
Billed as a world of artworks without boundaries, teamLab Borderless is a high-tech museum experience unlike any other. As you walk through the different rooms they change over time with projections, lights, and other media moving across walls, floors, and ceilings. If you’ve never been to anything like this, we view it as a must-see in Tokyo.
This location also has a tea house, En Tea House, where you can order tea and it blooms inside the teacup. This only added to our already amazing experience and we’d highly recommend a stop here too.
teamLab’s Borderless is hard to explain, you just need to go and see it for yourself!
Need to Know
- Hours: Generally open 9am-9pm, but check the website for current hours.
- Admission: Advance tickets are a must as they regularly sell out! We purchased our tickets online about 2 months in advance and paid ¥5,400 each.
- Pro Tip!: Book the first time slot of the day for the best experience. We arrived right before 9am and had time to stash our belongings in the free on-site lockers and move through the exhibits encountering very few other people. By the time we left a few hours later, it was very crowded and felt harder to enjoy.
Imperial Palace East Gardens
The Imperial Palace East Gardens are the former site of Edo Castle’s inner circles of defense. While none of the original main structures still exist today, there are some guardhouses, along with the entrance gates, walls, and moats, that are original. This was another gorgeous green space located in the heart of the city.
Upon entry there were paper maps in English and we made sure to hit the major highlights. These included seeing the foundation of the former castle tower and walking through the beautiful Japanese-style garden.
Need to Know
- Hours: Closed Mondays, Fridays, and certain holidays otherwise generally open at 9am but closing hours vary by season so be sure to check the website in advance.
- Admission: Admission is free. You do have to go through security in the form of a bag check, so be prepared to wait in a small line.
- Imperial Palace Tours: On certain days, guided tours of the Imperial Palace are given free of charge at 10am and 1:30pm and last 75 minutes. Some tickets are available online in advance, and others distributed in a walk-up fashion. We did not end up working this into our itinerary and were happy with walking through the gardens instead.
Explore Ginza
Just a short walk or subway ride away from the gardens is Ginza, a high-end shopping district in Tokyo. We recommend taking a stroll through this area and going in any of the stores that catch your eye.
We had our favorite sushi of the entire trip at Sushizanmai’s Ginza outpost. While Sushizanmai is a chain, our food tour guide assured us it was high-quality and one of the best. We were thrilled with the experience at lunch!
We walked through several department stores’ depachika which are super-fancy underground food markets. These are on another level with food that looks like art. Even if you don’t buy anything, they are worth a peek! We stopped in Mitsukoshi and another store nearby to get a taste of what these are all about.
Street Karting in Shibuya
Riding through a street kart under the lights of Tokyo dressed in ridiculous costumes was some of the most fun we had on our entire trip. We had smiles and laughs plastered on our faces the entire time and with people waving to us at the intersections we felt like celebrities. It was a whole new way to experience the Shibuya Scramble!
After completing our paperwork upon arrival, we had the chance to pick our costumes and put all our belongings in lockers with the exception of our phones which we kept in a pouch on the kart. After a safety and introductory video on driving rules in Japan and for the tour, before we knew it our group of six plus our guide were off! We had about 45 minutes of drive time and our guide did a great job of rotating the order of the cars, snagging great photos of every couple we were with. If you’re thinking about it, just book the tour. We promise you’ll have fun! Check out our video below for an insider look.
Need to Know
- Tour: We booked this tour on Get Your Guide.
- Time: Tours are offered daily at starting times throughout the day. While the tour will be fun any time of the day, we really loved being under the lights at night.
- Take Note!: To participate in this tour, U.S. driver’s license holders must have an International Driving Permit. You can easily get one at your local AAA for $20, so be sure to plan ahead.
Day 4 | Hakone
The next few days are spent in the town of Hakone, known for its hot springs, views of Mt. Fuji, and general natural beauty.
Travel Logistics
If you are departing from Tokyo, we highly recommend you do so via Shinjuku Station, making a stop at the Odakyu Sightseeing Service Center right near the entrance to the Odakyu train line. Here the extremely helpful, English-speaking staff will help you determine the best travel pass options based on your itinerary.
We paid ¥5,910 each for a Hakone Freepass and one-way rail tickets on the Odakyu train line from Shinjuku to the Hakone-Yumoto Station. The Hakone Freepass is a discount ticket that provides unlimited rides on eight modes of transportation once in Hakone, and they are available for two or three day periods. If you are going to Hakone, absolutely get one of these as it will make your life so much easier!
Note traveling from Shinjuku you also have the option to uprade to the “Limited Express Romancecar” which gets you to Hakone a bit quicker (~40 minutes) and means you do not need to transfer trains at the Odawara Station, near Hakone. We opted to save the ¥1,200 each and skip this upgrade, but if you are short on time this is something to consider.
If you take the same line we did, the train will terminate at the Odawara Station, so simply hop on the next train to Hakone-Yumoto and you’ll be in Hakone in 15 minutes. One last thing to consider is utilizing the baggage transfer service once at the Hakone station. For a fee, this service will deliver your larger luggage to your hotel, and can do the same with a pickup upon your departure. We used this service when we left and had a fantastic experience and wish we would have done it upon arrival too!
Stay in a Ryokan
Ryokan are traditional Japanese-style inns and typically have tatami (soft straw mat) rooms, local cuisine, and (in Hakone) on-site onsen, which are hot springs and bathing facilities. While Hakone can be done as a long day trip from Tokyo, we think you’d be missing out on a quintessential Japanese experience.
We stayed at Mount View Hakone and had a fantastic experience. It was one of our favorite parts of our trip to Japan. More on that later, but if you didn’t have your luggage transferred from the train station, using your Hakone Freepass make your way to your accommodation. We used the bus to make our way to our ryokan.
Lunch at LÜDERA
If you’re staying anywhere in the area, eat lunch at LÜDERA and your stomach will thank you! This cozy cafe had mouthwatering burgers and fries in a beautiful setting.
Hakone Open-Air Museum
The Hakone Open-Air Museum is primarily an outdoor sculpture museum. We loved the few hours we spent walking through the art which varied greatly in its style and theme. We also enjoyed climbing the lookout tower paneled with stained glass for a view of the surrounding fall foliage, and a pitstop in the free forest footbath. We were impressed by the indoor Picasso exhibition and there were plenty of kid-friendly and kid-focused exhibits here too.
Need to Know
- Hours: The museum is open year-round from 9am-5pm.
- Tickets: Tickets are available by walking up to the ticket counter for ¥2,000/adult, or online in advance for ¥1,800/adult. Show your Hakone Freepass at the counter to receive a ¥100 discount.
- Getting There: We took a bus to the museum. Based on how we traveled to and from our ryokan, it was about a 15-minute uphill walk to the museum from the bus stop. But it was in a beautiful area of lush forest with waterfalls, so we didn’t mind.
Ryokan Experience
Our room in the ryokan was in the traditional style with tatami floors and futon-style beds on the floor, which were very comfortable. We were also given a yukata, a summer kimono, and slippers to wear around the ryokan and to meals. While we were nervous about the etiquette of wearing the yukata and whether other guests would be as well, our fears were quickly dashed. The ryokan provided clear instructions on how to put on the yukata and everyone else was wearing theirs at meals in the restaurant! 🙂
Prior to dinner, we booked a private onsen. For a magical 45 minutes, we relaxed in the steaming baths of hot spring water as we listened to the rain gently falling on the bamboo forest just beyond our tubs. We paid extra for the private experience, but most ryokan in Hakone will have a public onsen for free (ours did too). Just note onsen etiquette is to go naked and they are separated by gender.
The dinner and breakfast that were included in our ryokan stay were a highlight. They were multi-course affairs called kaiseki ryori which included small bites of sashimi, grilled fish, steamed vegetables, soup, rice, pickles, and a dessert. These were artfully presented in different, colorful dishes. We could barely finish both meals, so you will not go hungry!
Day 5 | Hakone
Today is spent doing the traditional Hakone sightseeing loop using the Hakone Freepass before beginning your onward travel. We definitely recommend using the baggage transfer service so your luggage is waiting for you at the Hakone-Yumoto station.
Hakone Sightseeing Loop
After our hearty ryokan breakfast, we took a bus to the Gora station to begin our official loop.
- Cablecar (really like a tram) from Gora to Sounzan. These run about every 15 minutes and the ride is about 10 minutes long.
- Ropeway (really like a gondola) from Sounzan to Togendai, stopping for a transfer at Owakudani. The ropeway runs continuously and the total ride takes 30 minutes.
- Sightseeing boat (like a pirate ship!) from Togendai to Moto-Hakone. A transfer from one boat to the other is required at Hakone-machi. The sail across Lake Ashi takes about 30 minutes with departures every 30-60 minutes.
- Bus from Moto-Hakone to Hakone-Yumoto. The ride is 35 minutes and departures are every 20-30 minutes.
We stopped at Owakudani which is an area of volcanic activity with active sulphur vents. Here on a clear day you have a chance to see the notoriously shy Mt. Fuji. We got a brief glimpse of the base of the mountain when we were there, but that was it as it was quite cloudy. One of “the” things to do here is to purchase a bag of black eggs which are hard-boiled in the volcanic hot waters. They are said to extend your life by seven years, so we each ate two! If the thought turns you off, know this, while the outside is black the inside looks like a normal boiled egg.
Once we arrived in the Moto-Hakone port, we walked about 10 minutes to the Hakone Shrine. This shrine is enshrouded in a dense forest, but also marked by some prominent torii gates, one of which stands in the lake. This was a beautiful visit and admission is free.
Note if you are looking for goshuin here, the office is located next to the lower carpark. We found this very tricky to find after arriving on foot.
After exploring the shrine and the waterfront area, it’s time to head back to the Hakone-Yumoto station by bus. Before getting on the train, however, there are a few food items we recommend trying.
Near the Moto-Hakone port is a shop called The Cheese Terrace. They sell delectable mini-cheesecakes and we sampled the matcha and strawberry which were delicious. The second is to try a Mont Blanc dessert. We got ours at a shop near the train station called Hakone Roman-tei. One of the most unusual things we’ve ever eaten, it is a sponge cake base with strings of pressed chestnut paste piled high. You absolutely need to try one!
Onward Travel to Osaka
After picking up our delivered luggage at the Hakone-Yumoto station, we took the train to the Odawara station. Here, we used the automated machines to purchase our first Shinkansen (bullet train) tickets! The process was incredibly easy and fast and we were able to get reserved seats on a train departing 20 minutes later.
The train experience was so easy and straightforward. Where to board the cars was clearly marked on the platform and once onboard we easily found our seats. Unless you have huge suitcases, the luggage will fit in the overhead racks. Free wifi and very large and comfortable seats made the ride so enjoyable. It took a little over two hours to reach the Shin-Osaka station.
While eating and drinking is frowned upon on most public transportation in Japan, there is a whole culture around the Shinkansen and nearly everyone will be enjoying some sort of food or drink. Ekiben are a specific type of bento box sold at train stations. They are unique to every station in terms of their packaging and contents. We had so much fun shopping for our first ekiben in the Odawara station and then eating it on our way to Osaka!
Where We Stayed
We stayed at an Airbnb in the Minami area which spans the districts of Shinsaibashi and Namba in Osaka. We were surrounded by great dining choices just a few steps away and were very near to metro stations which made getting around easy.
Day 6 | Himeji
Located a short Shinkansen ride from Osaka, Himeji is worthy of this easy day trip. It takes just 30 minutes to reach by Shinkansen and we think the extra money is worth it. Using local trains, while you will save money, it takes nearly two hours! If you are using the JR Pass, it’s a no-brainer.
Himeji Castle
If you visit only one castle in Japan, make it the White Heron, or Himeji Castle. Considered by many to be the most spectacular, owing to its size and grandeur, it is one of only 12 original castles in Japan. That means it was never destroyed by war, earthquakes, or fires like most of the rest.
While visiting, you have the opportunity to not only walk around the grounds but to enter the main keep (after removing your shoes!). Once at the top, there were great views of the surrounding area. After meandering through the various gates and defenses of the castle, we explored the former residence of a princess enclosed in a long corridor within the bailey’s walls. This was interesting and also provided views of the main keep from a different perspective. Worth the extra walking!
Kokoen Garden
Adjacent to Himeji Castle is the Kokoen Garden. Although constructed fairly recently, this Japanese-style garden is done in the style of the Edo Period. There are nine separate walled gardens to explore and beautiful features such as a koi pond, waterfall, bamboo grove, and a lovely roofed corridor. Definitely add on this short detour to your Himeji visit.
Need to Know
- Hours: The castle is generally open year-round from 9am-5pm.
- Tickets: Tickets are available by walking up to the ticket counter for ¥1,000/adult, or ¥1,050/adult for a ticket that includes Kokoen Garden.
- Guided Tours: Guided tours, in English, are available daily at 10am and 1pm and last approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes. There is an extra charge of ¥1,000/adult and tours are limited to the first 10 people to sign up. We think this would have been worthwhile, but you should note that you cannot enter the castle grounds and then exit and re-enter for the tour. SInce we arrived right at 9am, we didn’t feel like waiting around an hour, so we ended up not taking the tour.
- Getting There: The castle grounds are an easy 20-minute walk from Himeji station.
Lunch
We found a lunch spot, Sen-Hime Japanese Food, directly across from the castle by just walking past. Navigating was a breeze with an ordering kiosk with pictures and English descriptions. We had the conger eel and beef sets which were mouthwateringly delicious.
Engyo-ji Temple on Mount Shosha
If the weather is nice in the afternoon, we recommend tacking on a visit to Engyo-ji Temple on Mount Shosha. With a history dating back over 1,000 years, this temple complex is spread out within a forest on top of a mountain. It is pure magic, with buildings and statues seemingly hidden around every corner. The grounds were even used to film some scenes in The Last Samurai.
To get here is an adventure as you must take a bus from the city center, then a ropeway, and walk the last bit to the top. This definitely felt way more off the beaten path and we saw only a handful of other people during our visit. All of the wooden halls were gorgeous and the forested grounds were positively dripping with moss. This is worth the trip!
Need to Know
- Hours: The grounds are generally open at 8:30am, but closing times vary seasonally. The ropeway to the top also occasionally closes in the winter for maintenance, so check the website.
- Tickets: We recommend purchasing a discount set ticket from the office at the Shinki Bus Terminal located right in front of Himeji station. For ¥1,700 (cash only) you get a roundtrip bus ticket and a roundtrip ropeway ticket. The staff there is very helpful and will give you instructions on where to go, as well as transportation timetables. Note entrance to the temple is an additional ¥500 (cash only) paid upon entry.
Okonomiyaki Dinner
Okonomiyaki is a traditional Japanese food consisting of a savory cabbage pancake grilled in front of you with your choice of toppings. It is one of the must-try foods in Osaka and we went to Okonomiyaki Okaru. We ordered two of the “specials” with included all of the toppings! Pork, minced beef, squid, shrimp, and octopus. The chef grilled this tableside and even made a cute design on each. This is a great experience to have at least once in Japan!
Day 7 | Universal Studios Japan
Two theme parks in one trip? Crazy, we know, but Universal Studios Japan is the only place on earth (right now) with an immersive Super Nintendo World. This experience was worth the visit alone, but there was plenty else to love about the park.
We couldn’t help but compare our time at Universal to DisneySea and had a much more seamless day at Universal Studios. We arrived shortly before opening, walked right through security, and were on our first ride 15 minutes later. For lunch, dinner, and snacks there was no waiting time and no mobile ordering required. The Universal app was easy to navigate and very helpful.
One-day tickets were more expensive, however, especially when we added on a 4-ride Express Pass. We did this to ensure we got access to Super Mario World which is currently restricted to limit the number of visitors.
During our time at Universal, from 9:00am to 8:30pm, we rode the following:
- Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem
- Detective Conan 4-D Live Show
- Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey (included in our Express Pass)
- Hollywood Ride – The Dream (included in our Express Pass) (2x)
- Hollywood Ride – The Dream: Backdrop
- JAWS
- Mario Kart: Koop’s Challenge (included in our Express Pass, this is how we got guaranteed timed entry to Super Nintendo World)
- The Flying Dinosaur (included in our Express Pass) (2x)
- Yoshi’s Adventure
Day 8 | Kobe
If you’re steak lovers like us and want the experience of trying authentic Kobe beef in Kobe, this is the perfect day trip from Osaka. To get there you can either take the local train line from Osaka on a 45-minute journey, or take a quicker but more expensive ride on the Shinkansen. Without a JR Pass, this time we opted for taking the local train.
Kobe Nunobiki Herb Gardens
As Japan’s largest herb gardens (they have over 75,000 herbs and flowers!) a visit to the 12 distinct garden areas is a great way to spend the morning. The easiest way to get there is to take a ropeway to the top, then meander down the paths to the base. In addition to the unique herb gardens, we enjoyed walking through the glass conservatory and resting on the hammocks throughout the property. The garden changes seasonally, and visiting in late November afforded us the opportunity to see it all decked out for the holidays. Our visit here lasted about two hours.
Need to Know
- Hours: Hours vary seasonally, so check the website. When we went the first ropeway car left the bottom station at 9:30am and the gardens officially opened at 10am.
- Tickets: We purchased tickets on-site the morning of our visit. We paid ¥2,000 each for a roundtrip ropeway ticket and access to the gardens.
Ikuta Shrine
This shrine, dedicated to the goddess of weaving, Wakahirume, is one of the oldest in Japan and happens to be right in the heart of Kobe’s city center. The grounds and small forest at its rear are worth a quick spin through on your way to lunch. Admission is free.
We just happened to visit on the Shichi-Go-San festival day which celebrates the growth and well-being of young children. We saw tons of adorable children and their parents posing for pictures in front of all the temple buildings.
Kobe Beef Lunch
Kobe beef is known all over the world for being a tender, flavorful meat marbled with fat. Produced from a specific type of cattle, Kobe beef must meet a strict series of requirements to earn the label. Generally only 3,000 head of cattle meet the requirements each year. This makes Kobe beef expensive! One way to help save a bit of money but still get the full experience is to book a lunch seating at a restaurant instead of dinner.
We made reservations for a 12pm seating at Steak Aoyama. This is a family-run business and our teppanyaki table had only 6 seats! We had a wonderful experience from start to finish and the chef was highly entertaining as he cooked our meal right in front of us on a 60-year old grill that looked brand new.
Our meal began with an artful, seasonal salad and then a simple cream soup. For the main event we dined on Kobe sirloin with vegetables and garlic. After our meal we were invited to sit and enjoy tea.
We did a ton of research on restaurants and were really happy with our choice. We would recommend Steak Aoyama to anyone. We made reservations 6 months in advance (just to be on the safe side) by sending a Facebook message (Instagram works too). We ordered based on the chef’s recommendation which was the sirloin cut, and ordered the 150 gram size.
Osaka Castle
Osaka Castle is located in Osaka Castle Park, a huge green space within Osaka. Unlike Himeji, Osaka Castle is entirely modern having been reconstructed in 1931 after former castles were destroyed on the site several times over. Inside the tower is a museum containing displays on the history of the castle and Japanese rulers associated with the site.
If you only visit one castle, make it Himeji. However, we did enjoy our visit to the tower of Osaka Castle and thought the displays were well done inside. The views at the top were really nice too!
Need to Know
- Hours: Generally open year-round from 9am-5pm.
- Tickets: We purchased tickets on-site the afternoon of our visit. We paid ¥600 each. Note to walk around the grounds of Osaka Castle Park is entirely free.
Explore Dotonbori
Dotonbori is a lively shopping and restaurant area spanning a river with the same name. This is a fun area to walk around stopping at food vendors that catch your eye and browsing the crazy shops. If there’s something we think you absolutely must try, it’s the Osaka delicacy takoyaki. This is a street food consisting of a batter filled with octopus, pickled ginger, and green onion, cooked in a special molded pan. The result in tourist vernacular? Octopus balls.
Dinner choices abound in the area, but we wanted to try another Osaka local food in the form of udon. Through our research we stumbled upon an authentic udon shop serving thin noodles, 香吾芽. We had the shrimp tempura udon and the beef curry udon. These steaming bowls were delicious and we liked the curry the best.
Day 9 | Miyajima Island
Today will start off with a Shinkansen ride taking you further south to Hiroshima. This will be your base for the night before continuing on to Kyoto.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at Via Inn Hiroshima Shinkansenguchi for its convenience as it is located less than a 5-minute walk from the Hiroshima Station. We were able to store our luggage there prior to check-in and after check-out, making exploring the Hiroshima area very easy. Breakfast was included in the very reasonable rate and our room was clean and comfortable.
Miyajima Island
Miyajima is a small island near Hiroshima, most famous for a giant torii gate which seems to float on the water during high tide, and during low tide you can walk right out to it. But there is also a shrine, delicious oysters and pastries, and even island-dwelling deer to enjoy once there.
To get to Miyajima requires a 30-minute train ride and then a short, 10-minute ferry ride. Note if you have a JR Pass, a ride on the JR ferry is included, just be sure to board that specific boat. Otherwise, you can just tap-and-go with your Suica card on either ferry which run very frequently.
Once on the island we really enjoyed spending a relaxing few hours doing the following:
- Getting a close look at Senjōkaku Pavilion (Five-Storied Pagoda of Miyajima)
- Visiting the Itsukushima Shrine whose buildings are all built over the water
- Walking around the waterfront area admiring the torii gate during high and low tides
- Enjoying an oyster set lunch from Kakiya, one of our favorite meals of the entire trip
- Trying all manner of Momiji Manjū (maple leaf-shaped pastries), both “regular” filled and fried at Momijido Main Store (custard-filled and fried was our favorite!)
- Sipping pints of IPAs at Miyajima Brewery
We had also wanted to check out the top of Mount Minsen for its reportedly great views, but we went on a cloudy and rainy day, so we opted to skip that excursion.
Relax & Dinner
After the fast pace of the past few days, today is a good day to take it easy. We used the late afternoon to relax in our hotel room.
We searched for sushi within walking distance to our hotel and found the most charming, family-owned place. The couple running the restaurant spoke no English, and we were the only foreign diners, but they were so incredibly sweet and welcoming. The woman even took our picture! Our sushi sets were the most reasonably priced meal of our whole trip and we loved every moment at Fukufuku Zushi Hikarimachi.
Day 10 | Hiroshima
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park
Decimated by the atomic bomb the United States dropped in 1945, today the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park commemorates the event. While sobering, the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum was well-done, with a goal of promoting peace in the hope that this grim history will never be repeated. Exhibits primarily focused on the aftereffects of the bomb through survivors’ stories, artifacts, and even art.
After the museum we walked through the rest of the park. We were particularly struck by the ruins of Genbaku Dome, one of the only buildings left standing near ground zero. The Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims was also poignant and beautiful.
Admission to all sites is free with the exception of the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum which charges ¥200/adult. Tickets can be bought on-site.
Hiroshima Castle
Another reconstruction, Hiroshima Castle was rebuilt after being destroyed by the 1945 atomic bombing of the city. Its main keep is five stories tall and surrounded by a moat. The modern interior is home to a museum with exhibits on Hiroshima and the castle. We did not elect to go inside, but did walk around the grounds to admire the nicknamed “Carp Castle” from the outside.
Lunch
Full disclosure: Originally we had wanted to try the “original” okonomiyaki in Hiroshima at Nagata-ya. When we arrived around lunch, however, the line just to get seated was 1.5 hours!
We weren’t willing to wait, so we headed a few doors down to get one last taste of the gargantuan oysters in the area. We got fried oyster sets from Ekohiiki along with Dekopon juice made from a Japanese citrus fruit.
Once you’re done for the day in Hiroshima, grab your luggage and head to the train station to catch a Shinkansen that will have you in Kyoto in just under two hours.
Where We Stayed
We stayed at an amazing Airbnb in the Kyoto neighborhood of Gion. Once again we loved this location for easy access to public transportation and plenty of restaurants and attractions nearby on foot.
Dinner
For dinner, we sat down for yakitori at Yakitori Daikichi Sanjo Branch. Savory meat skewers are ordered in pairs and we loved sampling our way through the different options. We also shared a baked potato and char-grilled rice ball that were out of this world.
Craving something sweet, we strolled across the river and stopped in Etc Etera for matcha parfaits. These were a unique combination of vanilla soft serve with cereal in the bottom and dusted with matcha on top. Yum!
Day 11 | Kyoto
Fushimi Inari-taisha
One of the most popular sites in Kyoto, Fushimi Inari-taisha is famous for its thousands of vermilion torii gates. Regardless of the time of day you visit it will probably be crowded, but it’s absolutely worth it. We recommend getting there as early as your schedule allows and walking all the way to the top of Mount Inari. This involves a lot of steps and you’ll be sweating by the top, but your reward is to leave the crowds behind and get a great view of Kyoto.
The shrine is dedicated to Inari, the god of rice. As a result fox statues are littered across the grounds as foxes are thought to be the god’s messengers. Take your time exploring the nooks and crannies which house smaller, intricate shrines and take the smaller offshoot trails from the main path.
The area is open 24/7 and admission is free. We arrived at 8am and spent around 2 hours exploring.
Snacks & Lunch
Just outside the entrance to the shrine, we had refreshing iced lattes at Vermillion Coffee.
We then made our way to Kyoto’s Fushimi Sake District ahead of our tour. We had authentic soba noodles at Yabusoba. Drinking the soba noodle broth at the end of the meal was such a delight!
Insider Sake Brewery Tour
Prior to visiting Japan we had both had sake a handful of times, but didn’t love the experience. We wanted to give sake another chance while in the country and are so glad we booked this 3-hour tour and tasting with food pairing.
Our afternoon started off with a guided tour inside the Gekkeikan Ōkura Sake Museum. Our host, a sake sommelier, did a fantastic job of providing an overview of the sake brewing process and the drink’s history. We even got to taste water from the well used to produce sake.
We then moved to their tasting room where we proceeded to taste 10 different types of sakes, most of which were paired with otsumami, traditional Japanese appetizers meant to enhance the flavors. We not only had a blast on this tour, but learned a lot too. We now understand what type of sake we both prefer, and would feel comfortable purchasing or ordering a bottle on our own. This was a fantastic experience!
GEAR (Non-Verbal Theatre)
The performance at GEAR is hard to describe, but one we wholeheartedly recommend. We were captivated for the full 90 minutes. Using a combination of hand gestures, acrobatics, technology, and more we were transported from our seats into another world.
There is a mime, juggler, magician, and break dancer who are all incredibly talented. And with only about 60 seats in the entire venue, the performance is intimate. If you enjoy theatrical experiences, you’ll love this one!
No cameras were allowed, but you can check out more information on their website.
Conveyor Belt Sushi Dinner
So cliche, we know, but we just had to experience conveyor belt sushi at least once on our trip. We headed to Musashi Sushi, just a short walk away from GEAR. Was it the best quality sushi? No. But it was still very good, so fun, and a great way to try many different types of sushi in pairs. We had quite the stack of places at the end!
Day 12 | Kyoto
Tenryu-ji Temple
This morning is spent visiting another very popular spot in Kyoto, Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. Based on our experience, to avoid the most crowded part of the grove walkway, we recommend visiting the Tenryu-ji Temple first.
Like most others in Japan, the temple’s original buildings have been destroyed many times over. But the garden has survived in its original form, which is why we recommend purchasing a garden-only ticket for ¥500. Nestled at the foot of the nearby mountains, the water features in the garden with the fall foliage backdrop were beautiful. A wonderful place to meander for an hour.
Arashiyama Bamboo Forest
Yes, it’s incredibly crowded, but the bamboo forest is also pretty amazing. Walking the path with stalks of bamboo literally towering over you is spectacular. We were actually surprised by just how short the main walkway was, so it doesn’t take long to walk the gauntlet. If you’re like us, you’ll take most of your time stopping to take photos!
This area is open 24/7 with no admission fee.
Okochi-Sanso Villa
At the top of the hill in the bamboo forest lies Okochi-Sanso Villa, the former estate of the Japanese actor Okochi Denjiro. The grounds were just gorgeous and are home to a traditional Japanese residence and tea house. We walked through the guided route across the gardens on the grounds which were breathtaking, especially with the foliage.
Admission here is ¥1,000 which we think is worth it and helps keep the crowds down. Your ticket also includes a free hot tea at the end. The teahouse is a lovely spot to take a break at the end of your walk.
Kameyama-koen Park
After visiting the villa you could just walk back to town, but we recommend going the long way through Kameyama-koen Park. Turn right at the villa’s exit, walking straight at the junction with the bamboo grove. Follow the flight of stone steps up to an overlook of the river below. Once you’ve soaked in the view, descend more steps to the river banks until you reach a bridge that leads you back to the heart of town.
Gio-ji Temple
A 20-minute walk from the city center will take you to Gio-ji Temple. While minuscule compared to the others we visited on our trip, it is dripping with moss, making you feel like you’ve crossed into a fairy forest. The buddhas on display in the main hall are worth taking your shoes off to enter. 🙂
Admission was ¥300 and we spent about half an hour exploring the grounds.
Snacks & Lunch
Feeling peckish on our way to Gio-ji Temple we were spoiled for choice of street food vendors in Arashiyama. We tried Daifuku and it was a delicious few bites made even better by the big juicy strawberry in the center.
After our morning of fully exploring the area we were starving! I know it may seem sacrilege to go out for pizza in Japan when they are so many local delicacies, but Pizzeria LUGARA hit the spot. Delicious slices of mortadella & pistachio and pumpkin & beef pizza coupled with Cokes in a glass bottle were divine. It felt good to take a break from all the white rice!
Nintendo Kyoto
As we previously proclaimed, we are huge Nintendo fans. We couldn’t pass up the chance to visit their flagship store in downtown Kyoto. There was a lot of fun merchandise to browse and if you visit, don’t miss the escalator to the rooftop photo op!
Kyoto Beer Lab
Sitting right outside the quiet Kamo River is Kyoto Beer Lab. What originally started as an experiment to brew beer with tea leaves six years ago, their menu has evolved to includes all types of beer delights from IPAs to sours to stouts. We felt right at home in the cozy confines of this funky brewery.
Ramen Factory Cooking Class
We adore ramen and so we jumped at the chance to take part in a ramen cooking class at The Ramen Factory in Kyoto.
We really appreciated that during our 1.5-hour class we cooked every part of our ramen. We made the dough from scratch, then pressed and cut it using a special ramen noodle machine. We made chicken Chashu from scratch, including adding the char by blow torch! The grand finale was making our own blend of miso and chicken broth, boiling the noodles, and selecting our toppings. The result? One of our favorite bowls of ramen during the entire trip (and we ate a lot of ramen).
Our instructor was so friendly giving helpful pointers and taking a ton of pictures with our cameras. She was also backed by an army of women who cleaned up our dirty dishes and were behind the scenes making everything run smoothly. At the end, we even got a keepsake souvenir. This was one of the most fun nights of our trip and a cooking class we’d highly recommend for ramen lovers.
Taiyaki
During your time in Japan, we highly recommend trying Taiyaki at least once. It’s a traditional Japanese dessert shaped like a fish and filled with things like sweet red bean paste or custard.
We discovered these in Kyoto at Narutotaiyaki Honpo Gion Shijo. The first night we got all three flavors (red bean, sweet potato, and custard) to try. Custard was the runaway favorite. In fact, we were so enamored we went back the very next night and both got a cusatard Taiyaki!!
Day 13 | Kyoto
Nijō Castle
Serving as the former Kyoto residence of the shogun, Nijō Castle is now a UNESCO world heritage site. The entire castle grounds and defenses are surrounded by tall stone walls and moats. Once inside you can visit in the interior of Ninomaru Palace which served as the residence and office of the shogun while he was in Kyoto.
The highlight here were the artfully painted sliding doors that preside above the tatami rooms. The tour route takes visitors past several waiting and audience rooms, each with distinct sliding door paneling. If you watched Shogun, this will feel very familiar!
The Ninomaru Garden adjacent to the castle is done in the Japanese style with a pond of course, but also really neat pine trees.
Need to Know
- Hours: Generally open 8:45am-4pm, but hours can vary by season, including closures on certain days, so be sure to check the website.
- Tickets: We purchased tickets on-site the morning of our visit. We paid ¥1,300 each for access to the castle and to visit the inside of Ninomaru Palace.
- Take Note: At the same location, there is also the Honmaru Palace which is only open certain days, and requires a reservation and an extra ¥1,000 fee. We didn’t do this, but with our regular castle admission fee could walk up the stone foundation of the former castle keep for a bird’s-eye view over the castle grounds.
Tea Ceremony in a Traditional Tea House
A Japanese tea ceremony is a ceremonial way of preparing and enjoying green tea. We wanted to learn more about the ceremony and experience it ourselves while in Japan, so we booked this activity in Kyoto.
Upon arrival, we were invited to remove our shoes and store our belonging before entering the tatami tearoom nestled amongst a tranquil Japanese garden. Our host explained a bit about the tea ceremony, proper etiquette, and what we could expect. Our tea master than entered and artfully prepared the tea using only hot water, a whisk, and the powder. As is custom, we were also given a sweet and in keeping with the season, we had a maple leaf confection.
After the ceremony, we all got to try our hand at making our own cup of matcha. Let’s just say it tasted nothing like the one the tea master prepared. It was like a different drink altogether! We also had the chance to ask the tea master questions about the traditions and ceremony. This was a great one-hour activity and one we would highly recommend.
Eat Your Way Through Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka Streets
For us, Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka streets are quintessential Japan. The cobblestone streets and historic, wooden Japanese-style buildings lining them are really fun to explore. And there are endless choices of small bites of food to try from the many vendors. We really enjoyed steamed pork buns, Kyoto fried chicken (served on a skewer!), and cherry blossom and matcha soft serve ice cream.
Nanzen-ji Temple
While there are many temples that you can (pay to) enter at Nanzen-ji, we think the real star of the show here is the aqueduct. Built in the late 19th Century it is part of a canal system historically used to transport water and goods. We loved walking under and on top of this large brick structure which was unlike anything we had seen on our trip to date. The grounds are free to enter and explore.
Walk the Philosopher’s Path
Away from the hustle and bustle of the city streets of Kyoto, the Philospher’s Path follows along the quiet canal offering a delightful afternoon respite. The path is named as a result of the meditation practice of a famous Japanese philosopher while walking this route on his daily commute to his job at the university.
The path is just over a mile long in its entirety and there are several small temples and shrines you can stop at if you are interested. If you are here in the spring, this is supposed to be a spectacular cherry blossom tree viewing spot.
Dinner
Despite having had ramen for dinner the evening prior, knowing this was one of our last meals in Japan, we couldn’t help it and went out for ramen again. We went to Ramen Miyako – Gion Main Shop and it was simply amazing. The pork was the best we had during our trip.
Kiyomizu-dera Temple
Best known for the wooden stage that seemingly juts out into thin air from the main hall, Kiyomizu-dera Temple has some really unique architecture. It was built without the use of nails! The grounds are also home to the Otowa Waterfall, a three-storied pagoda, and multiple shrines.
It is well worth working a visit in to your itinerary. We just happened to be there in the autumn, one of several times a year when they hold special “illumination nights”. Just as the name implies, powerful floodlights shone on the vermillion buildings and surrounding foliage. It’s hard to explain just how spectacular this visit was. It was the perfect way to spend our last evening in Japan.
Day 14 | Kyoto & Onward Travel
Japanese Washoku Bento Cooking Class
As our flight did not depart until the evening, we wanted to squeeze in one last experience. We booked this morning cooking class where we made all the dishes comprising a bento box.
We began by learning the history of bento boxes in Japan and then our small class of just four people got to work. We made sushi rolls, tempura, a tofu salad, a Japanese rolled omelette, and dashi, stock used for a soup. Our instructor was amazing, gently guiding and encouraging us the whole way. The end product was not only delicious, but looked pretty great too! We had so much food we took some of the leftovers for a snack on the train.
Last Food and Beer
As we were flying out of Tokyo’s Haneda Airport, we took a Shinkansen from Kyoto in the early afternoon to the Shin-Yokohama station. With time to spare, we stopped at Craft Beer Bar Ibrew and had a delicious house-brewed IPA. We also stopped at Antenna America inside the train station which, as the name suggests, had a plethora of American craft beers on offer (and an NFL game on the TV).
We took the local train to Haneda Airport and as is par for the course for Japan had such a pleasant and smooth experience. Before going through security, we wandered through the food choices and settled on Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki. Such a fun end to a truly memorable trip.
