The Classic Inca Trail in Peru is a multi-day hike through ancient Inca ruins and over high mountain passes in the Andes, culminating at the famous 15th century citadel of Machu Picchu. We spent four days on the Classic Inca Trail in June, hiking a total of 25.85 miles and gaining 9,383 feet of elevation. The fifth day of our trek was spent further exploring the Machu Picchu complex and summiting nearby Huayna Picchu. Read on to learn more about our experience on this expedition!
Day 1 | Piscacucho to Wayllabamba
Piscacucho (8,858') - Miskay (9,184') - Wayllabamba (9,757')
Trail Stats: 7.8 miles, 2,068′ elevation gain
Our first day on the Inca Trail! We drove from our hotel to the starting point of the trek in Piscacucho, a hotbed of trekking activity. Porters bustling around and hikers organizing backpacks before setting out made for a chaotic, but exciting scene. A permit is required to hike the Inca Trail as strict limits are in place (which we were thankful for!). We waited in line to have our permits and passports checked, then finally set off at 9am. We briefly stopped at a small museum to see a topo map of the trail we were about to tackle, then made our way to the river for a group picture!
We had beautiful views of the river and green valley walls on either side. We could even see the glacier at the top of Apu Huakay Willka, a mountain otherwise known as Veronica. Due to the altitude, we walked very slowly, even though the trail was flat, and took a lot of breaks. This gave us the chance to get to know our fellow team members better and develop a strong rapport that would carry us through the rest of the trip.
This part of the trail travels through several very small villages, and we could pay a mere 1 sol to use their bathroom. Snacks were also available to purchase.
We had the trail entirely to ourselves because many other groups rushed ahead. We could go at such a relaxed and enjoyable pace because we would be hiking for 4 days, while some would do this in only 2 or 3. We feel like this is missing the point!
Around noon we rolled up to Miskay, the spot of our first lunch on trail. Our group of porters was there to greet us and clap for us as we arrived. We felt like celebrities! At the camp, there were bowls of hot water and soap to wash up, which was an amazing treat. We had plenty of time to rest in chairs and try our hand at Sapo, or the “frog game”. This is a traditional coin-tossing game where players aim to throw coins into a metal frog’s mouth, or other holes on a board, to score points. Before we knew it, we were sitting down to a delightful 2-course meal of soup plus rice, chicken, potatoes, and avocado. Yum!!
After lunch, for the next four hours we climbed higher and higher, with fewer breaks. The trail meandered past several Inca sites far below and we continued to be treated to stunning views. The weather was comfortable with clouds and even a small rain shower at one point.
One of the most beautiful sites we saw from an overlook was the Inca City of Llactapata. Its location was so picturesque because it sits at the confluence of the Kusichaka and Willkanuta Rivers, on the mountain Patallaqta.
After a long day of trekking, we arrived at our home for the evening in Wayllabamba. Here we got our first glimpse of camp life and it did not disappoint. Our group’s private campsite had our tents already setup and our duffel bags ready for use. Each 2-person group had a 4-person tent, which meant plenty of room to spread out gear.
We washed up and headed into the mess tent for a happy hour with popcorn, crackers, and hot chocolate. Later, dinner was a 3-course affair of soup, chicken, pasta, broccoli cake, and mandarin orange dessert with hot tea.
We forgot just how nice it is to be on trail with a group and have a luxurious setup at camp. We were SO grateful to the porters, chefs, and all staff who made the magic happen each and every day. We even had a private bathroom tent for the group, which made all the difference.
Day 2 | Wayllabamba to Pacaymayo Alto
Wayllabamba (9,757') - Llulluchapampa (12,589') - Abra Warmihuañusca (13,828') - Pacaymayo Alto (11,798')
Trail Stats: 6.05 miles, 4,400′ elevation gain
Our second day on the Inca Trail would be the longest and most difficult and it began with a 5am wakeup call. Though it was still dark, our guides made it slightly more bearable to tear ourselves from the warmth of our sleeping bags with piping hot tea delivered to the doorstep of our tent.
We sipped on tea and packed up all our gear arriving to a splendid breakfast spread. Fresh fruit, veggie and meat omelets, and bread with dulce de leche were the perfect way to start our day.
We set out on trail around 6:30am and it was up, up, and UP! The trail was very steep with lots of stairs, but with the many breaks we took it was manageable. The clouds in the sky helped keep us cool and we also went through a dense patch of forest with running water and so many mossy trees. After climbing nearly 3,000 feet, our lunch at Llulluchapampa was well-earned. We enjoyed soup, mango ceviche, steak, chicken skewers, and potato salad.
After lunch, we still had 1,400 feet of ascent to go! We would be climbing to the high point on the entire Inca Trail, crossing Abra Warmihuañusca, also known as the Dead Woman Pass. This pass is so named because from a distance, the ridgeline looks like a woman in repose. Our group renamed the pass to something more cheery: Sleeping Beauty Pass.
The climb was tough and unfortunately, when we arrived it was completely socked in so we got none of the magnificent views the pass is known for. We still celebrated as a group with a photo and Mike and I enjoyed a Snickers.
What goes up must come down and we had to descend all the way from the pass at 13,828 feet to our campsite at Pacaymayo Alto at 11,798 feet. We did this via a lot of very steep and slippery rock steps. In a way, this reminded us of hiking in the Northeast in questionable weather, so we felt right at home on this trail. We arrived at camp just after 4pm and prepared for our 5pm hot chocolate happy hour. This was an amazing day on trail and we all felt so accomplished.
Camp Life
It was so lovely to walk into each camp, whether for lunch or for the night, and have everything already setup by our amazing porters. Our tents were always set up with a view!
The food was always so amazing! Here are some examples of the setup.
Day 3 | Pacaymayo Alto to Abra Phuyupatamarca
Pacaymayo Alto (11,798') - Abra Runkurakay (13,022') - Chaquicocha (11,270') - Abra Phuyupatamarca (12,136')
Trail Stats: 5.3 miles, 2,262′ elevation gain
After another 5am wakeup call and a delicious breakfast that included “fairy bread” (banana bread with sprinkles in it!), we set off on trail at 6:30am. The day began with a steep climb, but it was nowhere near as steep as the day prior.
Our first destination was the archaeological complex of Runkurakay at 12,464 feet in elevation. The structure was unique because it was oval in shape, thought to have served as a watchtower. We explored the ruins but unfortunately didn’t have many views due to cloud cover.
We pressed up and over our second mountain pass, Abra Runkurakay at 13,022 feet in elevation. Along the way, at times we could see the valley far below as it peeked out from the clouds.
Descending the mountain pass we entered the cloud forest, where once again all the trees we passed were dripping in moss and quite beautiful. We also reached the archeological complex of Sayacmarca at 11,887 feet. Making use of the steep terrain, the site’s various buildings and passageways are arranged on various planes, seeming to teeter on the edge of a precipice.
Now hungry for lunch, we made our way to Chaquicocha for our on-trail lunch. This was an extra-special day because we had formal introductions to every porter, chef, and staff member, and they to us. It was a lunch to remember!
After lunch we continued on the trail portion classified as “Inca Flat”, essentially a gently undulating trail. Along the way we had to walk through a natural tunnel. One of our guides, Edson, hid in there to scare us and I screamed bloody murder!
At last we arrived at the third mountain pass of our trek, and our camp for the night, Abra Phuyupatamarca at 12,136 feet. This site is known as the “Town Above the Clouds” and is known for its gorgeous sunsets and views of the surrounding mountains. Unfortunately for us, when we arrived it was socked in the mist and later it started raining. No views for us! Phuyupatamarca was also the highest camping spot on our trek, so it was freezing the whole night. We were cold in the mess tent and even sleeping in our tent, with all our clothes on.
Day 4 | Abra Phuyupatamarca to Machu Picchu
Abra Phuyupatamarca (12,136') - Wiñayhuayna (8,858') - Machu Picchu (7,970')
Trail Stats: 6.7 miles, 653′ elevation gain
Today was the big day! The main event! We would hike through the famous Sun Gate and get our first glimpses of Machu Picchu. But first, we woke at 5am to clear skies and the cries of our delighted fellow trekkers. In the pre-dawn light we all clamored up the hill behind our tents to the viewpoint we were meant to go to the night before. What we saw left us speechless. Salkantay Glacier in all her brillant glory, plus other distant glaciers, the green valley below, and even Veronica in the distance. It was the perfect trifecta, leaving some in tears.
All of the sudden we heard distant singing and up the hill came all the staff with a huge birthday cake from our chef for Christina, one of the trekkers who was celebrating a birthday. SO special!! We also learned it was our chef, Miguel’s birthday, so even more reason to celebrate. We cannot fathom how to bake a cake at 12,000 feet!
We ate a very special last breakfast outside of the mess tent, with our table out in the open to enjoy the views. Due to all the excitement we set off on a trail a bit later than normal, at 7:30am. Today would involve thousands of feet of descent and we began by going down lots of steep steps. Our first destination was the Phuyupatamarca ruins, consisting of many terraces and with views of the valley below. This time, we were above any clouds that rolled in!
The next part of the trail passed through dense jungle with some really neat wooden bridges to cross and tree tunnels to duck under. All of our team were in such high spirits, singing and clapping for all the porters that passed, affectionately calling out “haku haku!” (let’s go!).
We next arrived at one of our favorite sets of ruins along the entire trail, Intipata. Comprised of an immense set of terraces, it was an important agricultural site that grew potatoes, corn, quinoa, and other crops. The view from the top was also amazing, especially on such a clear day. The entire Urubamba Valley with the Vilcanota River were visible below.
After nearly 3,000 feet of descent over the course of the morning, we arrived at Wiñayhuayna, the site of an Inca citadel with various levels accessed via steep stone stairs. After touring the complex, we had our last lunch on trail nearby. This meal was really special because our group had our tip presentation, where we got to thank the staff for all their hard work and enthusiasm over the past few days. More tears were shed as we said “tupananchiskama” which means “until we meet again”.
The sun on the trail was intense so even though we were still hiking down, it was hot and tiring. We had one last crazy climb…straight up a short set of stairs our guide Edson called the “gringo killer”. We literally climbed up on our hands and feet and celebrated at the top, because just around the corner was the famous Sun Gate. We did it!!!
In the age of the Incas, the Sun Gate (Intipunku), was used as a control gate for anyone who wanted to enter or leave Machu Picchu. Today, at 8,924 feet it provides a stunning vista over the whole complex. We had our first views of Machu Picchu from here and could not believe our eyes.
After taking lots of photos, high fiving, and hugging, our group headed down into Machu Picchu to the terrace where we got the classic postcard view of Machu Picchu. It was breathtaking.
We had time to soak in the grandeur of the site on our own, then gathered for a group photo in our newly gifted t-shirts. We also watched as some cheeky grazing llamas came up and gummed on some hikers’ (salty?) arms!! Done for the day, we walked to the bus station for a 25-minute ride down a steep and windy gravel road to the town of Aguas Calientes, the gateway to Machu Picchu.
Aguas Calientes was bustling and located along the river. It reminded us of our visit to Namche Bazar while on the Everest Base Camp trek in Nepal. It was also quite a shock to see so many people after days on trail. We walked to our hotel in the quiet part of town and due to time constraints only had 30 minutes to get ready for our group dinner. This was not nearly enough time to scrub ourselves clean after 4 days on trail and the hot water ran out after the first round of showers!!
The celebration dinner was a true highlight, at Restaurant Bistro Bar Indio Feliz. Mike and I enjoyed our first beers in a week, and our 3-course meal was fabulous. Along the way back to our hotel, we wandered the streets and did some souvenir shopping in the markets lining either side of the river before falling into bed. It would not be an exaggeration to say this was one of the best, most joy-filled and memorable days of our lives.
Day 5 | Machu Picchu, Huayna Picchu + Travel to Cusco
We had a quick, early morning breakfast at our hotel, cramming in as many eggs and as much coffee as possible. Then, we waited in line to catch our 6am bus back to the Machu Picchu site. When we arrived, there were mainly clear skies, but some mist gave it an ethereal aspect.
At this early morning hour there was hardly anyone else at Machu Picchu, making the experience quite different than yesterday afternoon. Our group toured the complex for about an hour, wandering in awe through the amazing craftsmanship. Features such as trapezoidal doors and windows, and mortar-free walls, revealed the skill of Inca masons.
Just before 8am, we headed to the checkpoint for the climb up Huayna Picchu. Sitting just north of Machu Picchu, the mountain provides a stunning backdrop and is integral to the iconic image of the complex. Seeing it from far away the day prior, we were all intimidated. We’re going to climb that?! But it did begin to look more manageable at the base.
From the start, it was a straight climb up nearly 800 stone steps. We got out of breath quickly, so we took lots of breaks. Going so early in the morning meant we climbed most of the way in the shade and there was no two-way traffic with people coming down. The trail got so steep at some points that the stairs were lined with ropes for safety.
Finally, our group reached the summit marker and after a further scramble to the tippy top of the mountain, made it to the true summit. The views of Machu Picchu below were our absolute favorite and provided a new and different perspective. The hike to the summit of Huayna Picchu not only involved the extra effort, but the booking of a coveted permit one year in advance as daily visitation numbers are strictly limited. What an adventure!
When it was time to head down, we literally had to crawl through a small cave which we joked was the hardest part of the whole hike! Mike and I then went down ahead of the group because our pace was strong, and we met up at the control point. Halfway down the mountain, Mike picked up the cutest (stray) dog friend who ended up following him all the way to the bottom!
We reunited with our entire group, including those who didn’t complete the hike up Huayna Picchu and finished up our tour of Machu Picchu. As part of a small ceremony, we all made a coca leaf offering to Pachamama, the goddess of Mother Earth. We then took one last look at Machu Picchu and boarded the buses one last time for our ride to Aguas Calientes.
In town, we had our final group meal. A delicious 2-course lunch, then had some free time to explore and do some last-minute shopping.
To get back to Cusco, we first needed to take a 2-hour train ride from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo. The ride was very scenic and it was neat to look up and see all the trail we had trekked in the days prior. For those not completing the Inca Trail trek, the train is the main form of transportation to the gateway to Machu Picchu. Once in Ollantaytambo, it was then a further 2-hour van ride back to Cusco. In the early evening we arrived back at the hotel, and had a final goodbye with our team. Percy, our guide, presented all of us with a keepsake mug, donned with our group selfie from Machu Picchu. We now sip coffee from these fondly!
Now starving, without bothering to shower, Mike and I walked to the Italian restaurant La Osteria and scarfed down two amazing pizzas and beers. After a quick shower, we gratefully crawled into our gargantuan, warm bed, and slept a blissful sleep.
